§ 02 / Brand
Brembo Brake Pads & Brake Parts
Browse Brembo brake pads by the listed bike and brake application. A brake-control assembly is also included in the current range.
124 parts · updated daily
BREMBO — frequently asked questions
Common questions, straight answers. No fluff.
- Sintered metal. Organic pads glaze and vanish inside a moto when the disc is running wet grit. Sintered bites from cold, shrugs off water, and wears the disc faster than itself, which is the trade you want on a race bike.
- The clamp is 22mm, so yes on any standard MX bar. The part that matters is piston bore. Match it to your caliper piston count and total piston area, or the lever goes wooden or bottoms out. Check banjo angle against your handguards before you torque the perch down.
- Bench bleed the master first. Fluid in, piston stroked slowly until no bubbles surface in the reservoir. Fit it, connect the line, then vacuum bleed at the caliper or use pump-and-hold. Keep the reservoir topped the whole time. Air sneaks back in the second it drops below the compensating port.
- On stock disc diameter, yes. Oversize rotors need a relocation bracket cut for that exact disc OD, usually 260mm or 270mm at the front. Confirm piston count against your master cylinder bore. A four-pot caliper on a small master gives you a long lever and no bite.
- DOT 4 or DOT 5.1, whatever the reservoir cap says. Both are glycol based and rated past anything a 250F can throw at a front disc on a long downhill. DOT 5 is silicone and eats the seals. Flush once a season. Fluid pulls moisture out of the air through the cap diaphragm and the boiling point drops fast.
- Air or wet fluid. Bleed it first. If the lever still pumps up to the bar, the master cylinder seals are passing fluid back past the piston instead of pushing it down the line. A seal kit is cheaper than a new master and takes twenty minutes on the bench.