§ 02 / Brand
K&N Air Filters & Oil Filters
Browse K&N intake and oil-filtration products. Each listing identifies the filter type and the engines or bikes it applies to.
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K & N — frequently asked questions
Common questions, straight answers. No fluff.
- Check it after every ride in dust. Clean and re-oil the moment the pleats look loaded or the red tint has gone pale.
- Cotton holds flow longer in dry dust. The pleats carry surface area a foam element can't match, so power stays consistent deep into a moto when a foam would already be choking. Foam still wins in standing water and clay slop because it's easier to seal flat against an airbox lip and shrug off saturation. Most riders run cotton for hardpack and sand, foam for the wet rounds. Whichever you fit, the base seal is what keeps grit out of the engine, so grease the lip every install.
- Possibly. More air through the element means the mixture leans out, so the pilot or main may want a size up. Read the plug after two or three sessions and adjust from there.
- No. Use K&N's own filter oil. Generic oils sit too thick and strangle the flow, or run too thin and let fine dust straight through the weave into the intake tract.
- Tap the loose dirt off first. Spray the K&N cleaner on both faces and leave it ten minutes, but don't let it dry on the cotton. Rinse from the clean side outward with low-pressure water until it runs clear. Air dry only. Compressed air shreds the fibres and ends the filter's life early. Once it's bone dry, lay a bead of oil along the crown of every pleat and let it wick through for twenty minutes before refitting. Re-grease the sealing lip on the way back in.
- The canisters are thicker gauge steel and the media flows harder without dropping micron rating. Most also carry a 17mm nut welded to the end cap, which saves knuckles when the filter sits buried behind a frame rail.