§ 02 / Brand
SCAR
SCAR builds CNC-machined hard parts and controls — triple clamps, footpegs, gear levers, brake pedals, chain guides. Billet alloy, anodised, cut for riders who want a stiffer feel through the bars and a sharper bite underfoot. The range leans toward upgrades, not replacements: parts that swap in for stock components and survive heavy landings. Workshop-grade fit, race-grade finish. Use the filters below or the bike selector to pull the fitment for your build.
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Refine your fitment →SCAR — frequently asked questions
Common questions, straight answers. No fluff.
- These components are built for both motocross and enduro. The tolerances are tight enough for the track but the materials handle the impact of rock strikes and logs. You get a direct feel through your controls without the flex found in standard cast parts.
- Standard parts are often cast to save on production costs. These replacements are machined from aluminium alloys to provide a better strength-to-weight ratio. This reduces unsprung weight and improves the response of your suspension and steering. You will notice a more rigid feel at the front end during heavy braking or when landing flat. The machining process removes the imperfections found in cast metal, which prevents stress fractures during hard use. It is a functional upgrade for riders pushing a bike to the limit on rough terrain.
- Most items are direct replacements for your original equipment. You will need a standard set of metric sockets and a torque wrench to ensure everything is secured to factory specifications. Always use a thread-locking compound where the service manual dictates. The fit is precise, so do not force any components into place if they do not slide on easily.
- Grip is the primary focus here. The tooth pattern is designed to clear mud and debris so your boots stay planted in wet conditions. Unlike some options that use sharp pins which tear through soles, these use a broader platform to distribute your weight more evenly. This reduces fatigue in your arches during long motos. The wider base also gives you more leverage when leaning the bike into ruts or controlling it in the air. You are buying a part that survives crashes where thinner, lighter alternatives would simply snap or bend out of shape.
- These are designed to work with your existing fork legs and bearings. You simply swap the old units out and bolt these in. Ensure you check the offset matches your riding style before purchase. Some options allow for adjustable bar positions to help you dial in the ergonomics of your cockpit.
- Avoid using harsh caustic cleaners that can dull the anodised finish on your components. Use a standard bike wash and a soft brush to remove dirt. Dry the parts thoroughly after washing to prevent water spotting on the machined surfaces.