§ 02 / Brand
Scar Controls, Sprockets & Bike Hardware
Controls and replacement hardware for bars, footrests and drivetrain work, with other service parts alongside.
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SCAR — frequently asked questions
Common questions, straight answers. No fluff.
- Yes. The tolerances are tight enough for moto pace, and billet aluminium takes rock strikes and log hits where cast parts crack. You feel the controls direct, without the flex of a stock casting.
- Cast parts are cheap to produce and they carry the casting's hidden voids. SCAR machines from solid alloy, so the strength-to-weight ratio climbs and the stress fractures don't start. Unsprung weight drops at the wheel, which the suspension and steering both notice. The front end feels more rigid under heavy braking and on flat landings. It is a functional upgrade, not a cosmetic one, and it shows most when you push the bike on rough ground.
- No. Most items are direct OEM replacements. Metric sockets and a torque wrench cover it, set to factory spec. Use thread-lock where the manual calls for it. The fit is precise, so never force a part that won't slide on.
- Grip comes first. The tooth pattern clears mud so your boots stay planted in the wet. The platform is broad, not sharp-pinned, so it spreads your weight instead of chewing through soles. That cuts arch fatigue across a long moto. The wider base gives you more leverage leaning into ruts and setting the bike in the air. And it survives the crashes that snap or fold the thinner, lighter pegs.
- No. They work with your existing fork stanchions and bearings. Swap the old clamps out, bolt these in. Check the offset suits your riding before you buy. Some run adjustable bar positions so you can set the cockpit to your reach.
- Skip caustic cleaners. They dull the anodised finish. Use standard bike wash and a soft brush, then dry the parts fully so water doesn't spot the machined faces.